When you inherit a jewelry box, the first question is the simplest to ask and the hardest to answer at a glance: is any of this real? Real gold and gemstones carry intrinsic value; costume pieces are valued differently (and sometimes highly). Here is how to start telling them apart — and when to bring in a professional.
Part of our Vintage Jewelry Guide. This is a deep dive on one topic from our complete resource for collectors. Read the full Vintage & Costume Jewelry Guide →
Look for hallmarks first
Turn each piece over and look for tiny stamped marks. Numbers like 14K, 18K, 585, or 750 indicate gold; 925 or “sterling” indicates silver; “plat” or 950 indicates platinum. These hallmarks are the single best clue that a piece is precious metal. Their absence is not proof of costume — some genuine pieces are unmarked — but a clear hallmark is a strong “real” signal.
Weigh it in your hand
Precious metals are dense. Real gold and silver feel noticeably heavier than plated base metal of the same size. With a little practice, heft becomes a useful first filter — a piece that feels suspiciously light for its size is often costume or hollow.
Watch for plating clues
Plated costume jewelry often shows wear at edges and high points, where the thin gold or silver layer rubs away to reveal a different metal underneath. Green or black skin discoloration from wear also points to base metal. Solid gold and silver do not wear through to another color.
How the stones are set
In quality fine jewelry, gemstones are typically held in metal prongs or bezels; stones that are glued in are a strong sign of costume. Genuine gemstones also tend to have more depth and life than glass or plastic “stones,” though telling a real gem from a good imitation reliably is a job for a professional.
Simple at-home checks (with caution)
A magnet can help — gold, silver, and platinum are not magnetic, so a strong pull suggests a base-metal core (though many costume pieces are not magnetic either). Avoid acid tests and other destructive methods on anything you might keep; they can damage a piece. Treat home checks as clues, not verdicts.
When to get it appraised
For anything that might be genuinely valuable — solid gold, real gemstones, or signed designer pieces — get a professional appraisal from a jeweler or gemologist. It is the only way to be sure, and you will need a documented valuation for insurance anyway. Don’t sell or scrap anything until you know what it is.
Don’t dismiss the costume pieces
One last caution: “not real gold” does not mean “worthless.” Signed designer costume jewelry can be quite collectible — see what makes costume jewelry valuable — so set aside the marked and unusual costume pieces rather than tossing them, and catalog everything as you go. Relicara records each piece with photos, marks, and values so an inherited box becomes a documented, insurance-ready inventory.
